Islay & Jura in Winter: the essential guide
Often visited as a pair, Islay and Jura are two small islands off Scotland’s west coast, towards the south of the Inner Hebrides. Slightly less mountainous and rugged than Skye, these islands are known primarily for their unparalleled peated whiskies! But there’s so much more to Islay and Jura than distilleries. And, although these are popular tourist destinations in the summer, Islay and Jura are also magical in the winter. So bundle up and get ready to experience the magic of these islands in a whole new way as we explore some of the best things you can do on the Isles of Islay and Jura in winter.
WHY VISIT ISLAY AND JURA IN WINTER?
Islay (pronounced eye-lah not eye-lay or is-lay) and Jura are perfect for a winter escape. Yes, the islands may be sleepy, and a few things might be closed. But beautiful landscapes, dramatic seascapes, and warm log fires make these islands a perfect base for those seeking a cosy and charming escape in the coldest months of the year. Without the crowds of summer, Islay and Jura feel even more remote, their windswept coasts, rolling hills, and quiet distilleries yours to savour in peace. Winter storms crashing on rocky shores and soft winter sunlight illuminating golden moors create a photographer’s dream. Islay will make you feel warm and fuzzy, and not just because you’ve been drinking whisky!
Though the days are shorter, the long evenings are perfect for cosying up by a fire, savouring local whisky, or gazing at dark skies studded with stars. And the best bit about visiting Islay and Jura in winter? The infamous Scottish midge (a small, incredibly annoying biting insect that swarms travellers in hordes in the summer months) is nowhere to be seen!
Heading to the Hebrides? Check out the following posts:
Highland cows on Islay
7 MUST-DO ADVENTURES ON ISLAY AND JURA IN WINTER
1.
Tour the Iconic Whisky Distilleries: Ok, I know I just said that there is more to Islay and Jura than whisky. But whisky is, of course, Islay’s ultimate claim to fame. If you do like whisky, you won’t want to miss out on trying Islay’s peaty single malts.
Islay is home to a whopping 9 distilleries, the most famous is probably Laphroaig, but don’t miss out on trying the others too. We enjoyed cocktails at Lagavulin and sampling some of the rare unpeated island whiskies at Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich. And let’s not leave Jura out! Don’t forget to visit Jura Distillery, the sole whisky producer on Jura, renowned for its smooth and distinctive single malt (yes, I’m a particular fan of this one). Jura is also home to the Lussa gin distillery, just in case you’re getting tired of whisky!
A distillery tour is a great opportunity to see the distillation process in action and learn about the different types of whisky that are produced on the islands. Not only are distilleries open year-round, but winter tours are quieter, more intimate and usually indoors. Plus, at the end of the tour you’ll probably get to sample a few ‘drams’ of whisky to warm up, making this the perfect activity for a cold, rainy, or windy day.
2.
Stroll Along Islay’s Stunning Beaches: Even in winter, Scotland’s beaches are beautiful, and those on Islay and Jura are no exception. Machir Bay, backed by sandy dunes, is beautiful on a sunny day, but has quite strong currents so be wary of swimming here. Slightly to the north, Saligo Bay’s otherworldly rock formations are also a must-see for anyone into geology (or, if you’re like me, anyone who just appreciates cool rocks). Wrap up warm, bring a flask of tea or hot chocolate, and enjoy the peace of these pristine shorelines with not a soul in sight. Or, if you’re feeling brave, why not try a cold-water dip?
3.
Take a hike: Islay and Jura offer some superb scenery for walkers, and the rolling hills and coastal cliffs (as opposed to Skye’s rugged mountains) lend themselves particularly well to winter walks. Islay’s Oa Peninsula and Loch Gruinart Nature Reserves are run by the RSPB and are home to dozens of rare bird species, plus otters! These are both easy hikes with boardwalks for an easy or family-friendly stroll. Don’t forget your binoculars!
If you’re looking for something more challenging, you could hike Jura’s Paps. The winter scenery is breathtaking, especially if you’re lucky enough to see the islands blanketed in snow and frost. Added benefits of hiking in winter include both fewer people, and fewer swarms of midges on your hikes. Just remember to be prepared for winter mountain conditions, the trails on the Paps are tough-going, especially if there’s ice or a lot of rain.
Sunset walks on Machir Bay
4.
Walk or cycle the Three Distilleries Pathway: Setting off from Port Ellen, the Three Distilleries Pathway is a three-mile walk linking the Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg distilleries. It is a beautiful paved route through the countryside and along the coastline, and you can pop in for a wee dram to warm up in each distillery. Finish up with a delicious lunch or a snack at The Old Kiln Cafe at Ardbeg, a perfect way to spend a day on Islay!
5.
Spot Winter Wildlife: Islay and Jura are a haven for wildlife, with over 100 species of bird being present year-round. Winter is an excellent time to spot barnacle geese and whooper swans, which migrate here. Keep an eye out for deer on Jura’s rugged hills and seals lounging along the coast too, especially at Porthaven bay! Go on a tour with a local guide for best chances of spotting these animals. Or, for a more budget-friendly option, grab your binoculars and head out for a walk. You’ll be amazed by the beauty and diversity of the island’s wildlife!
6.
Savour local delicacies: When the weather gets cold, there’s nothing better than a warm and hearty meal to chase away the chill. Islay and Jura are known for their delicious seafood, so be sure to try local specialities like cullen skink (a creamy fish soup) to warm up on a cold winter day. Haggis (a traditional Scottish dish made from sheep’s organs) is also a hit with travellers, and most places will offer a vegetarian/vegan version these days too. We also really enjoyed Islay’s Peat-zeria. A play on words inspired by the peat that gives island whisky it’s distinctive smokey flavour, Peatzeria offers delicious pizzas made with locally sourced ingredients for a farm-to-table experience!
7.
Go stargazing or chase the Northern Lights: Islay and Jura are pretty remote, and have some of the darkest skies in Europe, making them an ideal destination for star gazing. Winter is the perfect time to wrap up warm and gaze up at the sky. If you’re lucky, you might even spot the Aurora Borealis. We’ve seen the Northern Lights pretty frequently over the last year, even from Edinburgh, so I can only imagine how beautiful this would be with epic scenery and no light pollution.
Views of Jura’s Paps from Bunnahabhain distillery
HOW TO GET TO ISLAY AND JURA IN WINTER
Getting to Islay and Jura in winter is pretty much the same as getting there in summer! Simply hop on a ferry from Kennacraig. Ok… it’s not quite as easy as in summer. There are fewer ferries (two a day to Port Askaig, one a day to Port Ellen) and they cancel frequently due to stormy weather… all just a part of the island charm, we promise!
Here’s a step-by-step guide to getting to Islay and Jura in winter:
1. Head to Kennacraig Ferry Terminal: Kennacraig is the main port for ferries to Islay. From Glasgow, it’s about 2.5 hours by car, from Edinburgh it’s 3.5 hours by car. Follow the A83 road through Loch Lomond and Inveraray. There are buses too, but driving gives you flexibility, especially in winter.
2. Take the Ferry to Islay: Ferries to Islay are run by CalMac (Caledonian MacBrayne). You can take your car or travel as a foot passenger. The ferry ride takes about 2 hours. With a car, it’s around £55 each way. You can take the ferry to either Port Ellen (in the south) or Port Askaig (in the north) on Islay. Check the ferry timetable online and book your tickets in advance, especially in summer, when it can get really busy.
3. Explore Islay or Continue to Jura: Once on Islay, you can start exploring its whisky distilleries, beaches, and wildlife. If you’re heading to Jura…
4. Take the Short Ferry to Jura: The ferry between Islay (Port Askaig) and Jura takes about 5 minutes. It’s a small ferry that runs regularly. No need to book ahead—just turn up. You can check the schedule here.
5. Explore Jura: Jura is quieter than Islay. It’s perfect for hiking, spotting red deer, and enjoying the wilderness. You can explore the island by bike, car, or on foot.
Halfway through the three distilleries hike
WHERE TO STAY ON ISLAY AND JURA IN WINTER
#1 PORT ELLEN
Port Ellen is a small town in the south of Islay, centred around a beautifully curved bay. It’s close to the Port Ellen ferry terminal and some of Islay’s famous whisky distilleries, like Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg.
- Stay here if: you’re a foot passenger reliant on public transport to visit Islay and you want to be within walking distance of four (!) distilleries, a winery, and a rum-maker.
- Best For: Whisky lovers and convenience to ferries.
- Accommodation Options: Small hotels, B&Bs, and self-catering cottages
#2 BOWMORE
Bowmore is the largest settlement on Islay. It’s very centrally located, so you’re never more than a 20 to 30 minute drive from most of Islay’s main attractions. Bowmore also has lots of amenities, including a pizzeria, chippy, cafes, and a couple of gift shops.
- Stay here if: You want to be centrally located on the island, with the most options for restaurants and shops. There’s also a distillery within walking distance!
- Best For: First-time visitors who want a balance of amenities and a good base for exploring the island.
- Accommodation Options: Hotels, inns, guesthouses, and self-catering accommodation.
#3 BRIDGEND
Bridgend is a peaceful village in the heart of Islay, ideal for exploring the island in all directions. You’re close to some of Islay’s most beautiful beaches in the north west, and the Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve, where you can hide-out in a wildlife hide and wait for otters.
- Stay here if: You want an ideal base for exploring the island in all directions.
- Best For: Nature lovers and those seeking somewhere a little quieter to hang out.
- Accommodation Options: A few luxury hotels and cozy B&Bs.
#4 PORT CHARLOTTE
Port Charlotte, in the west of Islay, is a charming village with whitewashed cottages along the coastline. It has a relaxed vibe and is near Bruichladdich Distillery, which also make the ‘Port Charlotte’ branded whisky.
- Stay here if: You want a quiet and laid-back place to stay with beautiful bay views, within walking distance of one of Islay’s two un-peated (non-smoky tasting) distilleries.
- Best For: Quiet stays and picturesque views.
- Accommodation Options: Small hotels and guesthouses.
Port Ellen
ISLAY AND JURA IN WINTER: THINGS TO NOTE
And now the boring bit… logistics! There are a few things you should be aware of when travelling to Islay and Jura in winter:
- Ferry Cancellations:
You do need to travel by ferry to Islay and Jura – unlike Skye, there’s no bridge here! The CalMac ferries from the mainland are often delayed or cancelled due to rough seas in winter and it can be pretty last-minute! So be flexible keep an eye on the ferry status updates. We’ve had to call off weekends away because the ferries cancelled the morning we were supposed to set off! - Limited Daylight:
With only about seven hours of daylight in winter, you’re going to want to try to make the most of it! So get up with the sun and get outside! You can spend the dark evenings chilling out by the fire, or exploring Islay and Jura’s food scene. - Variable Weather:
From heavy rain to howling winds, winter weather can change quickly, especially in the islands! Pack sturdy waterproof clothing and good boots, and always check the forecast before venturing out. - Accommodation and Dining:
Some accommodations and restaurants close or reduce hours in the off-season, so ring ahead to avoid disappointment. On the plus side, low tourist numbers means your accommodation is likely to be cheaper. We usually camp in Scotland in summer, so we use the more affordable prices to splash out on a nice cottage by the sea. - Driving on Single-Track Roads:
Winter roads can be slippery, and Jura’s roads, in particular, are remote, narrow, and often full of potholes! Familiarise yourself with driving on single-track roads and using passing places. And always drive cautiously and allow extra time.
Have you visited Islay & Jura, or Scotland during the winter months? How did you find it? Would you like to share anything we’ve missed? Add your voice to the Discoveny community by leaving a comment below or dropping me an email here.
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Alice
Alice is a UK travel blogger who advocates sustainable travel and being more eco-conscious on a budget. She loves coffee, her houseplants and summiting mountains.
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